Home While Away

Whenever I’m traveling Route 66 (or anywhere, actually) I always keep an eye out for the mom-and-pop places. It’s part of the authentic experience; a diner, a shop, a motel. I get the appeal of chain places – they provide you with a standard, no-surprises experience. That’s fine and, in some cases, can be comforting…but nothing beats the warmth of a passionate small business owner or the joy of an unexpected pleasure. Or, as they say in Dutch, “gastvrijheid” which means hospitality but roughly translates to “guest freedom.”

On my recent trip west, I found just such an unexpected pleasure: The Aztec Motel and Creative Space in Seligman, Arizona.

Now, I’d stopped at the Aztec before. Last November, I walked over and introduced myself to Sebastiaan, one of the owners. I wasn’t staying there, but I’d heard a little bit about his story and wanted to meet him. Sebastiaan came to America from the Netherlands and, along with his wife Anna Marie Gonzales, purchased the Aztec in 2020. He had been in the hospitality business for a decade and wanted to operate a space of his own…and he found it in the Birthplace of Historic Route 66.

The motel wasn’t a motel originally. In fact, it’s had a lot of identities over its 110-year life. The first structure was a small, adobe guesthouse built in 1915. In the decades to follow, additions were made to convert it into a full-blown motel. Later, it was turned into a restaurant and then a small series of shops. When Sebastiaan and Anna purchased the property, they renovated it for a return to overnight accommodation. That original structure still stands in the back and serves as the Creative Space – an open room for guests and the community with games, books, activities, musical instruments, kitchenette, and meeting space. There’s also a common area outside with a fire pit and plenty of seating. It’s quite a lovely, relaxing space.

On this visit, I was indeed staying overnight. Sebastiaan greeted me warmly when I arrived (we’d talked a bit the previous day at an Easter event they had organized in town) and he got me settled quickly. I was already comfortable, but when I entered my suite in the back of the motel I felt instantly relaxed. What a beautiful space! Though it was my first time, it felt familiar, somehow.

That evening, I spent a significant amount of time just sitting inside the creative space. Sebastiaan and Anna have their own Spotify playlists and I really enjoyed just sitting and listening to their selection, which included some familier oldies but mixed in songs I had not heard before. I had been given a tour last year, so I was somewhat familiar with the room, but I walked around anyway. I went to the back to look at the signed photo of Val Kilmer (the late actor had stayed here once) and when I turned around to head back to the front I saw something that shocked me. It was a mirror.

It was identical to a mirror our family had when I was growing up. In fact, Mom still had that mirror when she passed away in 2020. It was so large she hadn’t found a good place to hang it in her rent house so it had been leaned up against one of her bookshelves for the longest time. But there was no mistaking it. It was an unexpected anchor to my past in a place that had already felt like home.

I sat down again and spent time in my thoughts. All of the bits and pieces of the Aztec – the friendly owner from another country, the comfortable spaces, the attention to detail, the instant feeling of home – it all reminded me so much of another place I’d loved, the Globetrotter in Holbrook. I’d stayed there a few times before they closed and the owners returned to Europe, the last time with Mom in 2019 on our way to the Grand Canyon. The sadness that had come with the closure of that meaningful spot was now intermingled with the comfort of this new one, a spiritual successor of hospitality.

I slept very well at the Aztec. The next morning, I awoke early (as is tradition) and went to the front office where I enjoyed some excellent locally-roasted coffee from The Commodore House. (Highly recommended, by the way!) I learned about how Anna had founded a local beautification organization to clean up the I-40 off-ramps and help locals that needed an extra hand. Although running a small business is challenging and the ongoing international tourism instability is a concern, Sebastiaan is optimistic. He sees the potential and believes that if you work hard and provide a quality experience, it will make a difference. And I believe he is right.

There’s a lot more to write about regarding my two weeks in Arizona and New Mexico, but I wanted to make sure I at least highlighted The Aztec and the wonderful experience I had there. I’ll definitely be back.